Travelling in rural Saurashtra in Gujarat isn't any exciting all around you are miles upon somnplent miles of a dusty grey landscape. And just when you are tiring of the drabness, a flurry of colour vrooms past you with a roar that reverberates in the dust laden air. It is a chhakda, a mechanised praying mantis in psychedelic colours and a triumph of rural genius. The roofless three wheeled motorcycle rickshaw is the beast of the burden in the region, carrying people, milk and other goods from one village to another.