Barren land glares at you from either side of the national highway from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer. A few dry wild bushes and cacti line the tough terrain. Although there are random patches of ploughed land, they look parched. Greenery is quite hard to find here, but wildlife isn't. One can easily spot multi-hued peacocks lazing on trees or fearlessly taking a stroll on the highway, herds of sheep and goats, and scores of sparrows hopping near your feet, if you stop over at a roadside dhaba. Of course, there are plenty of camels—as a source of livelihood, forming the backbone of the tourism industry. Children play with them, and for elders they are constant companions that serve as a mode of transport. Jaisalmer, in the Thar desert, is sandy, dry and scorched. During summer, the temperature rises to more than 55 degrees Celsius. Spread over 38,401sq. km, it is one of the largest districts in Rajasthan, and is famous for its sand dunes and forts. The landscape slopes towards the Indus Valley and the Rann of Kutch, but has no perennial river. The scanty rainfall—the annual average rainfall is just 164mm, far less than Rajasthan's annual average of 575.1mm—has left the underground water level very low. Nearly two decades ago, a group of nomads settled here and created a village—Dhani—only after a few clan members, like Amin Khan and his brothers, Jamal and Mubarak, agreed to shoulder the responsibility of bringing water from a far-off village. Braving the sand dunes and the heat, they made several trips every day to get water using camel carriages. Each cart carried 40 litres of potable water and fetched Amin Rs 150. But has nothing changed in all these years? “A few years ago, the government gave a tube well to our village, but the water is unfit for drinking. It is red in colour. I am not literate, but I know that it will cause diseases. So, we use it judiciously,” says Amin, 50. Water in most tube wells dug by the government is too salty or has too much fluoride in it. Mubarak, in his late 40s, though not a farmer, sighs at the truant monsoon. “The water level has receded by 30ft in nearby wells,” laments Mubarak, as he shows me deep rope scars on his palms. Till the end of July, Jaisalmer received a meagre 12.4mm of rainfall—six times less than the normal rainfall. Unlike Mubarak, Jamal is a happy man, as the demand for water has gone up and so have his earnings. On special occasions like marriages, families spend nearly 20 per cent of the entire budget on water. The dryness affects people's lives in many ways. Many villagers, who were farmers, have now shifted to other work because of water shortage. Says Narayan, a resident of Mandpiya village: “I dig for yellow stones and it gives me good money. I do not have to worry as the monsoons have no role in it.” He earns around Rs 2,500 a month now. His brother, Purkha Ram, who has taken up a teaching job, earns Rs 2,000 a month, and they spend Rs 600 every month on getting a tanker of water. Every village in Jaisalmer has a community tank, where the water is meant for emergency use. For daily use, women fetch water from nearby wells or water bodies, leaving as early as four in the morning. “Of the 40 girls in my school, at least 10 either come late or don't turn up at all because they have to help their families fetch water. We spend money on water, as I don't want my children to miss out on their education,” says Purkha. A.K. Jaswal, scientist at Indian Meteorological Department, Pune, says Jaisalmer is so dry because it is part of the Thar desert. Moreover, the Aravalli ranges are in the same direction as the monsoon currents, so they don't obstruct the clouds. “The clouds simply pass through and it doesn't rain,” he says. Incomes and relationships also dry up without water here. “Scores of livestock die and I lose more money than my annual income when there are no rains,” says 80-year-old Rakha Khan, a resident of Dhaniyon ki Dhani village. Khan, who owns 200 animals, has lost about 60 sheep and goats this year, which equates to a loss of over Rs 50,000. “Severe fights happen over water. If your cattle are dying because of thirst and someone is using water to wash their clothes, you obviously get angry. Sometimes these enmities go on for generations,” says Harji Ram, who lost 20 goats to water scarcity. To compensate for the lack of colour in their everyday life, the women here flaunt bright coloured ghaghra cholis and classic silver jewellery. Instead of using cement for their houses, they build them out of soil and cow-dung to save water. And those still in farming sow less water-consuming crops like bajra, sarson, chana and guar. The smart use of drip and sprinkle irrigation systems also limits wastage of water. With so many difficulties to combat every day, why not shift base? “This is my home,” says 13-year-old Ali Khan, who takes tourists on camel rides. “The sand becomes cool at night here. In the plains it is hot all the time.” Arbaz, his brother, says, “This desert gives us our bread and butter. Life is unimaginable without it.” He owns two camels, named after the famous stars, Hrithik and Michael Jackson. However tough life may be, he says, it is hard to leave one's home. Home is, indeed, where the 
heart is. Driest place: Jaisalmer, Rajasthan Elevation: 229m above sea level Rainfall: This monsoon, the district received only 12.4mm of rainfall. Best time to visit: To experience extreme heat, visit during May or June. Touristy months are October to March. How to get there: 
A six-hour drive from Jodhpur along NH 14 
and NH 15.